Gray, white, and salt-and-pepper hair all have characteristics that present unique coloring challenges. Gray hair can turn orange if the lightener used is not processed long enough.
One problem that can occur with gray hair is yellowing, or a yellow cast caused by many different factors such as smoking, medication, exposure to the sun, and even hair sprays and styling aids.
Gray hair basically accepts the level of color applied, but a level 9 or lighter shades may not give complete coverage because of the small percentage of artificial pigment formulated into these shades. A level 6 or 7 will give a better coverage and can be used to create pastel and blonde tones if so desired.
For individuals who are 80 to 90 percent gray, a hair color within the blonde range is generally more flattering than a darker shade. The lighter level of artificial color may be selected to give a warm or cool finish depending on your skin tone, eye color and personal preference.
Another factor to consider when coloring low percentages of gray hair to a darker level is that color on color will always make a darker color. The addition of dark artificial pigment to your natural pigment will result in a color that your eyes will perceive as darker. This is why many salons recommend a shade or 2 lighter than your natural hair color.
Gray hair is so resistant to coloring even when you have the correct formula, application and time. In these cases, pre-softening becomes necessary in order to treat resistant hair and to allow for better penetration of coloring by opening the cuticle. This is a double application process and should be done by a professional.
There are several rules for effective color correction of gray hair
First, don't panic! Panicking will only get you more trouble. Next, find out that the real problems is. Is the hair too brassy, too yellow, too orange, or just what is the problem? Then figure out what caused the problem. Did you maybe leave the application on too long, or perhaps not long enough? Find a suitable remedy for your problem. Decide what action needs to be taken to fix the problem. Take one step at a time. Do not expect to fix your problem all at once. If these steps are not carefully followed, your problem will not go away. Then finally, ALWAYS prepare a test strand for accuracy. This may seem like a time consuming step, but it is important to get accurate results from your process.
There are many techniques to help you solve your hair color challenges. There is no final destination when it comes to learning hair coloring, so the learning curve keeps going into a journey that never ends but is filled with fascinating places to visit. So take your time and experiment before ever just jumping in and attempting to do something you are not sure you can do. If all else fails, seek professional help!
